You must. Or don't, because then I'd have to wait in line. I like it about 1/2 empty, as it currently seems to always be, because it doesn't get loud and you get better service--and food. Although if the 1/2 emptiness is going to lead to out-of-business-ness, then GO! NOW! Just not too often, or I may have to throw a fork at you. It's happened before.
Moving on...
Branch 27 opened in the hood a little over a year ago in an old branch of the Chicago public library. Since they opened in 2009, they've gone through two menus, and, I believe, are on their third menu and second chef. While the dinner menu's newest incarnation takes it a step up, cuisine-wise -- from elevated American comfort food (burgers, sandwiches, predictable entrees) to internally-influenced, meat-centric courses (pork rilletes, brazilian seafood stew, grilled 'cowboy' ribeye) -- I must admit to missing menu's previous the casual vibe. What can I say? Sandwiches are my favorite food, and while I fully recognize a more talented and creative chef is now helming the kitchen, I'd like to be able to get a dinner for under $15 there, a feat no longer possible.
But, to solve the dillema, in steps brunch. I'm not usually a brunch person--brunch menus tend to be fairly standard, as is the fare that ensues from them. I'm a savory, real-food-in-the-morning typa girl, and dainty fruit plates and oatmeal aren't what I go to restaurants to eat. That's why I usually prefer diners to brunch spots--you won't get anything out-of-the-ordinary at a diner, but you'll at least get real food from real people, with a minimum of strollers and yuppies interfering with my paper, coffee and hangover.
Oh, but Branch 27 knows how to do brunch for real people (click the link for the menu). Real people who like to eat interesting interpretations without having to save up for a month to do so. Southern-fried pork belly with cheddar grits and sausage gravy? Seriously, man, how could you not want to eat that! Biscuits and gravy, a diner staple, is spun into a new being with Southern gumbo gravy and grilled shrimp--all of a sudden, it seems much more appealing.
I had the Chilaquiles, the fried tortilla, red sauce, chorizo and egg scramble, and almost keeled over from how delicious it was--spicy but not too hot, large pieces of perhaps house-made chorizo, and perfectly poached eggs perched sumptiously on top. Is there anythign more fun than poking your fork's tines into the runny yolk of a poached egg and watching the food below get bathed in sunny deliciousness? A friend E had the above-mentioned pork belly--a small portion, thank god, since it's all necessary ingredients for a coronary on one plate--and it was good, and somehow not nearly as rich as you'd think. Sissy got the french toast, and I'll be damned if it wasn't the best thing on the table--chewy, crispy sourdough, just sweet enough, tempered with bitter candied orange peel and lightly coated with the cream cheese anglaise...DAMN but I all of a sudden like sweets for breakfast!
What I liked even more than the food (the bloody mary? my intended answer, but do yourself a favor and order it. the fact that it comes with a full-blown meal-on-a-stick is only one selling point; the house-made mix and spicy, strong flavors should seal the deal) was that they had clearly addressed some issues that we had last time we at brunch here. The bloody maries were much better--gone was the bitter undertaste, pronounced was the southwestern spiciness and, perhaps, a hint of chipotle smoke. The hash browns, previously thin, sad little shredded potato paties, were nowhere to be found, having been replaced with dark-brown, caramelized and salted quartered new potatoes, fried and plated in their own miniature cast-iron pans. More, please. Much more.
We may be going back on Sunday...so watch out, internet. Cause more raves are sure to come.
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