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Thursday, October 14, 2010

Turkey Burgers with Creamy Romaine Slaw

Is there anything so great as a burger?  Besides sandwiches….

Behold: a burger.
No, people, there is not.  Let my un-highbrow food preferences be known—there is no more perfect food than a cheeseburger.  It is my favorite food, although my arterial walls may wish it otherwise. 

An American icon, the hamburger evokes childhood memories and particular emotions with each juicy, meaty bite.  Can you remember the first burger you ever had?  Can you imagine a summer barbecue without burgers on the grill?  Can you walk by a restaurant and smell charcoal and sizzling beef without a Pavlovian drool response?  We even love bad burgers, a fact to which McDonalds can attest.

See all the junk in the patties?  This will help the finished product immensely. 
Thankfully, the burger is not staid in tradition.  It is malleable, adaptable, and open to new ideas.  It is GGG for whatever you could think to do to it.  Just look at the Australians—they put beets and pineapples on their burgers. Or peruse the Kuma's Corner or Bad Apple menus, and rethink what should and should not top a burger. 

One of my favorite burgers has just bacon, sharp cheddar, and barbecue sauce on it.  Perhaps my favorite all-time burger had pancetta, brie, spinach, and a bourbon-poached pear on it (thank you, Kuma’s Lair of the Minotaur).  But, really, all burgers are my favorite.  Some are just more favorite than others. 

Sizzling away on the grill pan.  I have a bad track record with grilling turkey burgers on a real grill...too many down the grates.
This one came to me via Mommie from Real Simple magazine--Turkey Burgers with Creamy Romaine Slaw.  Usually turkey burgers suffer the same fate—dry, overcooked, a bland imitation of beef.  You just can’t treak turkey the same way as beef.  For one, I like my burgers medium-rare—but you won’t ever catch anyone sane eating undercooked poultry.  A good burger needs little more than an 80/20 meat/fat ratio, a coarse grind, loose packing, liberal sprinkling of salt & pepper, and a quick sear on a roaring hot grill/griddle to become great. (I guess that might sound like a lot…) But, lo and behold, treat the turkey the same way, and dry blandness results.

Instead, it helps to approach turkey burgers from a different angle.  What does it usually lack?  Flavor and moisture, both due in large part to its lean-ness.  So…why not add those things back in?  Unlike burgers, which I almost never “mix-into” before cooking (I’ll make an exception for the Contessa’s burgers, which call for onion, Worcestershire, egg, and, yes, a pat of butter stuck into the middle), turkey burgers call out for seasoning and add-ins. 


Someday soon I’ll tell you all about my Salsa Verde Burgers, which began as a Rachel Ray recipe but have evolved far beyond into something sublime.  They use about ¼ cup salsa and cumin to spice up the burgers, with the chunky tomatoes keeping the meat from drying out.    

These burgers use spicy Dijon mustard, thyme (or sage, if that’s all you have) and green onion to much the same effect.  Lacking cheese, a tangy romaine slaw perks up the earthiness and keeps them tasting light while also hearty.  The only substitutions I made were the aforementioned sage.  I also used only 1/2 the amount of meat to make 2 burgers, but kept the add-in amounts the same.  What can I say, I like big--not subtle--flavors.  Same with the slaw--probably went a little heavy on the sauce, but it came out just right--tangy, bright, crunchy, and oh-so-flavorful.  A success all around. 

Yes, those are panko-crusted baked onion rings.  Patience, friends. The recipe is coming.
I know I write loftily about silly topics like what we eat and why we eat it.  I’m still working out the tone and style and, truthfully, I’m using this as an exercise to help me find a style of food writing that suits me.  So, internet, bear with a girl.  She’ll come around, eventually.

Minorly adapted recipe after the jump; original linked above. 

Turkey Burgers with Creamy Romaine Slaw
Adapted from Real Simple


1/2 pound ground  turkey
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tsp fresh sage or thyme leaves
2 scallions, sliced
kosher salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons low-fat mayonnaise
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 to 1.5 cups shredded romaine lettuce
1 medium carrot, coarsely grated
2 soft rolls, split and toasted

In a medium bowl, combine the turkey, mustard, thyme, and scallions until well mixed.  Form the meat into two patties; season with S&P.

Heat a grill or grill pan over medium heat (careful if using a grill--turkey burgers aren't as sturdy as beef, and need gentle handling.  Oil the grill grate to minimize sticking). Cook the patties until cooked through, 6 or so minutes per side.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Toss with the lettuce and carrot.  Toast the rolls in the grill pan, cut side down, if desired.  You desire. 

Serve the burgers on the rolls, topped with the slaw. Serve. 

2 comments:

  1. Oh, you are so clever. Looks like you used country french bread or ciabatta bread for the bun. I, like you, thought the seasonings could have been increased. I liked the romaine slaw a lot, too. So did daddy. He liked the burgers better than the salse verde burgers. XOXOX

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  2. Hi mom! Actually--in the name of using what you have, not buying more--I used bakery sausage rolls! I ripped off two, leaving them stuck together, then cut them in half crosswise. Unorthodox, yes, but delicious!

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