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Monday, October 25, 2010

Braised Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Shallots

It’s no secret that Brussels sprouts are not the most exciting vegetable.  They’re immortalized in cartoons and sitcoms as the grossest of vegetables, the one that no kid will eat and that always gets fed to the dog.  They are most often found over-boiled, mushy, and, frankly, pretty gross. You can gussy them up with vinegar or butter or whatever, but it can’t overcome a good veggie cooked badly. Because of this, I totally understand how and why they got their bad rap.
How can you not want to eat that?
Yet it doesn’t have to be that way!  We can live in a different world!  One where Brussels sprouts get their due appreciation.  One where little cabbages (they aren’t, but don’t they look like it?) are loved and celebrated in all of their miniature glory.  I want to live in that world.

I’ve read interesting recipes where you shred or very thinly slice the sprouts into delicate little ribbons, then lightly sauté theme or use them in a slaw.  This is a good idea, because dramatically changing their shape tricks the eater into forgetting past associations with the humble sprout and trying them with an open mind.   Plus, the little shreds are much more approachable than the somewhat dense, compact green leafy balls. 

A good idea, yes.  But I wanted to try a different tack to give these sprouts a new life.  A more direct route.  And what’s the easiest way to make something not delicious into something delicious?  Add bacon.  Hey, it’s just science.  Bacon + other food = good.  You can’t argue with a proof that thorough.

Another problem with the common approach to sprouts is a lack of imagination.  Take vegetables, put in water, boil until soft.  I mean, I suppose boiled potatoes are fine, blanched green beans are OK too.  But they're plain, boring, and bland.  Most times you employ this method, it's merely a step toward a finished product.  Even boiled potatoes usually get buttered and seasoned at the table!  Why relegate sprouts to the blandest of cooking methods?  Look at cabbage ("Cabbages is beautiful"--line from one of my favorite novels...).  They're versitle, used both raw and cooked, in all sorts of applications.  A sprout can be just as loved. 

Building layers of flavor by using bacon and shallots to create a base, gently braising the sprouts in chicken stock, and finishing it off with some coarsely ground pepper melds these sprouts into something greater than the sum of their parts. Give them another chance.  Served with some Parmesan Garlic Bread, it easily transforms from a side dish to a meal. One you won't believe started out with Brussels sprouts.  Believe. 

Jump for a recipe. 

Braised Brussels Sprouts with Bacon and Shallots
Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as a main.

3-4 strips bacon, chopped
1 tsp olive oil
1 shallot, skinned and thinly sliced
½ lb Brussels sprouts, stemmed and halved (slice really big ones into 3 or 4 slices)
½ cup chicken stock or broth
S&P

Heat olive oil in a heavy skillet (I used enameled cast iron) over medium-high heat until shimmering.  Add bacon and cook until fat starts to render. Add shallots and sauté until starting to soften and brown, about 3 minutes. 

Increase heat to medium-high and add Brussels sprouts to skillet; toss to incorporate.  Season with S&P.  Saute until starting to brown in spots, 2 to 3 minutes. 

Deglaze by adding chicken stock and stirring to scrape browned bits off the bottom.  Cover pan and braise for 5 minutes, then remove lid and simmer until much of liquid is evaporated, about 5 more minutes.  Season with S&P—probably only needs a good grind of pepper to finish it off.

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